ABOUT: Domaine d'Aupilhac lies across the river Herault from Daumas Gassac in Montpeyroux, about a 30 minute drive inland from Montpellier. The Fadat family has managed the property for three generations but has only been bottling their wine since 1989. Sylvain is the man with the plan, managing the vineyard like a prize fighter and achieving the multi-year task of organic certification. The wines are stuffed with character, intense and complex, and benefit greatly from ageing. The grapes come from a few dozen hectares of craggy, limestone terraced vineyards and the Cocalieres comes from high slopes of limestone and ancient volcanic basalt. Red wine is king in the Languedoc but this wine should give everyone pause. Marsanne and Roussane aren’t known for their bright acidity, but the Fadat vines are high in the hills with a northwestern sun exposure, both contributing to acid retention and reduced ripeness. This means everything, it might be a flabby monster otherwise. We opened this 2015 in 2022 and were stunned; incredibly complex, interesting development and mighty delicious. TASTE: The Domaine d'Aupilhac Les Cocalieres Blanc 2015 is a blend of 30% Roussane, 30% Rolle, 20% Marsanne and 20% Grenache Blanc. The color is burnt orange, you could mistake it for an “orange” wine in appearance. The nose has lifted, developing, complex aromas of honeydew melons, oranges, lemons, pineapples, fennel, orange marmalade, almonds and brine. The aromas are mimicked in the flavor, with a real lime zest lift to the acidity, and flavors of orange marmalade and dried apricots join the party. The finish is long, the complexity is high and will develop like a whale. PAIR: Artichoke gratin, baked goat cheese, pasta with mushrooms and fried egg, onion soup, Doritos, roasted apples, potatoes, and onions, and buttery French brioche.
