ABOUT: Guy Breton is one of the gang of four from Beaujolais back in the 80’s who went all in on the natural way of winemaking ala Jules Chauvet. Smart gang. He took over his grandfather’s ancient vines in Morgon in 1986 and began making beautifully expressive Morgon. He also has a hectare of century old vines in Regnie, and recently acquired .65 hectare of 60 year old vines in Cote de Brouilly, which is what we’re here to talk about. The grapes in Brouilly have a good amount of tannin and earthy qualities which Breton plays like a fiddle. Interestingly, and unlike many of his neighbors, he siphons off the free run juice from the bottom of the tank when doing his semi-carbonic maceration, which straight away puts a damper on the tannins. Still structured however, with brilliant acidity, just lighter and silkier than most Cote de Brouilly’s. One of the absolute best winemakers and wines from the Kermit Lynch stable. TASTE: I had the opportunity to taste this wine again and in my notes from that afternoon I underlined the Breton Brouilly 2018 with terrible, chicken scratch notes down the side of the page. At that tasting I was excited, and now that I’ve tasted it again in my kitchen in this miserably dank Seattle December I remember why. Beautifully lifted, developing aromas of strawberries, cherries, raspberries, tangy orange marmalade, baking spices, and f**king cherry pie. Dry with low tannin and a dollop of wonderfully balanced, high acidity. Following are flavors of strawberries, cherries, raspberries, black licorice, lime peel, crushed flowers and rose water. The finish is long and the complexity is high; I’m keeping the pencil on the pad for further bolts of notes. PAIR: Chickpea curry with sweet potatoes and red peppers, tart cherry grilled cheese sandwich, vegetable stew with dumplings, cacio e pepe with mushrooms, gruyere macaroni and cheese, and enchiladas montadas.
