ABOUT: When I was a squirt I missed an opportunity to visit the island of Santorini with a childhood friend who was going to visit family. I have regretted it ever since, especially since I have become interested in wine. The Assyrtiko I have tasted from that island blows my car doors off. Totally unique, trained in a crazy way called koulara; gobelet style, but in a swirl close to the ground to protect the vines from the brutal Mediterranean sun. Very cool. Thymiopolous is located in Naoussa, in northern Greece, with vines trained in the traditional guyot style and farmed with biodynamic methods in full effect. The vines are 35-50 years old, and the Xinomavro is as high quality as grapes can be. On par with well grown Nebbiolo in Italy. Thymiopolous is right up front and ready for Greek wines popularity explosion. TASTE: The Uranos is their flagship wine, made from a blend of grapes from three different vineyard parcels, Amygdalies, Kaifas, and Aghios-Trifonas. As mentioned before, Xinomavro is in a similar pool as Nebbiolo, so a punctuated tannic structure, a feminine, rosy elegance with brooding dark fruits and tons of earthy-mushroomy-ness. Totally expressive, broad shoulders and built to last. It spends 18 months in French and Austrian barrels; it’s ready to drink right out the gate or can develop for 20 years. PAIR: Mushrooms, aged Kasseri cheese, eggplant Mousakka, Tiropites, Spanakopita, Dolmathakia, and Tsoureki.
